Friday, March 4, 2011
March Artwalk II
Thursday, March 3, 2011
March Artwalk
I will be attending the March Art Walk. I can’t wait to see the work in the downtown shops and galleries. I hope you all come by ARTifacts and have a look at some of my pottery work. Look for the lower booth with a blue back drop and a sign that says: Darling Pottery and more.
I was pleased to be able to fill my space with pottery, recycled candles, wood knitting needles, weaving sticks, hair pins, a 24-pin loom and some of my photo work.
Also, look for my photographs on the way into the shop as you go up the stairs. I added a piece called “No Loitering” that is a collection of images for the May 2010 Clarksville flood. I also have a digitally colored piece called “Captured Moments” that was taken at Rivers and Spires last April as well as another digitally colored image taken on the street where I live called “Soft Light” showing a little bit of mankind being overtaken by nature.
I hope you enjoy them all!
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Artifacts Booth Opening
I am very excited to report that my pottery, artist tools, photographs and recycled candles can now be found at their very on booth at ARTifacts. The gallery is located at 124 Strawberry Alley in the heart of historic downtown Clarksville. I will be coming in every Thursday starting next week to restock the booth and add new items. I will also try to keep this website and my Facebook page updated to share my new items as they become available. So, please come by and see my work!
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Pouring
I took a class on pouring ceramics last week and I went a little crazy pouring lots of things. I went back today and cleaned up the items and poured a few more things. Mook was bored so he read and took pictures. I thought I would share a rough step by step of how pouring works.
The first image is pouring slip from a plastic jug into a bucket. I had to do this to make sure the slip is mixed properly before pouring. I took a paint stick and stirred the bucket afterward. I couldn't resist making the "bubble, bubble, toil and trouble" joke as I did it.
The next step is cleaning out the plaster molds to remove old clay, then using straps to secure the mold pieces together. In the second picture, I poured the slip from the bucket into the molds. You can see the full molds in the third picture. During this step you must make sure to pour the mold full. If you stop pouring and begin again it leaves a line in the piece.
After waiting 5-10 minutes you test the mold by using a tool to determine how thick the partially dried wall of clay is. When it is thick enough, you pour the excess clay out, as in the fourth picture. You then leave the mold on the bucket, using a grate to hold it up so it can fully drain. After another ten minutes you check the mold, when it is dry enough, you take the mold apart. This step takes the longest time as you have to wait until the clay decides it is ready to come out, time is less relevant than the size of the piece and the thickness of the walls.
You can see pieces in the partially opened molds in the next three images. After giving it another 10 minutes or so, you can then gently take the form out of the mold and trim off the excess clay. Allow the pieces to dry completely, trim any additional bits off and smooth the edges with a scrubber pad and you're ready to fire.
Needless to say, it takes a couple of hours to pour, a day to dry, another bit of time to clean up the pieces. Then firing usually takes 12-24 hours, a few hours to heat up, a few hours in the kiln and 8-12 to cool down. Once the item is fired, you can paint it with acrylics as decoration or with glaze which usually makes it food safe, but requires another round in the kiln to set. An interesting thing about ceramic glaze is that it is made of sillica, which is effectually glass. The reason it is food safe is because you are basically melting glass over the pottery, making it stronger, waterproof and less able to hold nasty bits in the pores like clay would.
The last images are of the pieces I made while taking the class last week, before they were cleaned up. They are mostly cups and pitchers with a few figurines thrown in. One of the cups has a partial lid which makes absolutely no sense to me at all. If you have ever seen a cup like this before and know why it has this piece, let me know. I am really curious. By the way, it's not a creamer or pouring device of any kind, there is no hole or spout.
The first image is pouring slip from a plastic jug into a bucket. I had to do this to make sure the slip is mixed properly before pouring. I took a paint stick and stirred the bucket afterward. I couldn't resist making the "bubble, bubble, toil and trouble" joke as I did it.
The next step is cleaning out the plaster molds to remove old clay, then using straps to secure the mold pieces together. In the second picture, I poured the slip from the bucket into the molds. You can see the full molds in the third picture. During this step you must make sure to pour the mold full. If you stop pouring and begin again it leaves a line in the piece.
After waiting 5-10 minutes you test the mold by using a tool to determine how thick the partially dried wall of clay is. When it is thick enough, you pour the excess clay out, as in the fourth picture. You then leave the mold on the bucket, using a grate to hold it up so it can fully drain. After another ten minutes you check the mold, when it is dry enough, you take the mold apart. This step takes the longest time as you have to wait until the clay decides it is ready to come out, time is less relevant than the size of the piece and the thickness of the walls.
You can see pieces in the partially opened molds in the next three images. After giving it another 10 minutes or so, you can then gently take the form out of the mold and trim off the excess clay. Allow the pieces to dry completely, trim any additional bits off and smooth the edges with a scrubber pad and you're ready to fire.
Needless to say, it takes a couple of hours to pour, a day to dry, another bit of time to clean up the pieces. Then firing usually takes 12-24 hours, a few hours to heat up, a few hours in the kiln and 8-12 to cool down. Once the item is fired, you can paint it with acrylics as decoration or with glaze which usually makes it food safe, but requires another round in the kiln to set. An interesting thing about ceramic glaze is that it is made of sillica, which is effectually glass. The reason it is food safe is because you are basically melting glass over the pottery, making it stronger, waterproof and less able to hold nasty bits in the pores like clay would.
The last images are of the pieces I made while taking the class last week, before they were cleaned up. They are mostly cups and pitchers with a few figurines thrown in. One of the cups has a partial lid which makes absolutely no sense to me at all. If you have ever seen a cup like this before and know why it has this piece, let me know. I am really curious. By the way, it's not a creamer or pouring device of any kind, there is no hole or spout.
Monday, October 4, 2010
Progress
I have been working on pottery again. I finished 16 pieces, got them fired and glazed all but one of them and turned them in to be fired again. I have noticed when I am working in my studio everything seems more pleasant and happy. It is work and it is quite exhausting to do it for too long, but it has become my happy place.
I've also been putting together photos to make some compilations to print, matte and frame. Matting and framing is really quite expensive, especially when you need multiple windows cut out. I found a cheaper alternative at a local craft center, but their turn around is so slow that you really have to plan in advance to get anything done.
I've also been putting together photos to make some compilations to print, matte and frame. Matting and framing is really quite expensive, especially when you need multiple windows cut out. I found a cheaper alternative at a local craft center, but their turn around is so slow that you really have to plan in advance to get anything done.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Random bits of pottery
I finally managed to get back into my studio after a long break for depression. I made some bowls using hand building techniques, slump molds and/or carving on my banding wheel. I love my banding wheel, but it would be so nice to have an actual electric wheel. Unfortunately that is long out of my price range. Anyway, I just felt like sharing.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Slump mold III
I did manage to get a meager amount of work done with some clay today. The second attempt at the slump mold was again a failure, but at least I think I discovered the problem this time. I couldn't get the plate off leather hard, so I decided to let it dry farther. It cracked in several places because as it dries, clay shrinks. Which is something I completely was aware of, but apparently needed a reminder. My third attempt used WD40 in order to keep it from sticking, so I should be able to remove it when the clay is leather hard.
I had never used WD40 before, but I had seen others use it. It apparently works wonders as a release agent. The clay wouldn't stick to the plate even wet, that is a big wow. I was going to try powder, but I am glad I tried this instead. I hope it finally works out. I am going to try a bowl next.
I had never used WD40 before, but I had seen others use it. It apparently works wonders as a release agent. The clay wouldn't stick to the plate even wet, that is a big wow. I was going to try powder, but I am glad I tried this instead. I hope it finally works out. I am going to try a bowl next.
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